Fortunately for the elderly woman, the 19 other toddlers waiting in line are not as troublesome as the red-cheeked boy. It is not easy being "mother" to dozens of children living away from their parents, separated by a political struggle, but Tibetan activists like Dampso know how to brave troubles.

"We do everything for them because their parents can't," said Dampso, 69, who lives in this hill station where Tibet's spiritual leader the Dalai Lama runs a government in exile and leads a movement against Chinese rule in his homeland.

"Dress them, feed them, even sing to them. ... It's quite a bit of work," she said.

House No. 7 of Tibetan Children's Village, known locally as "Babyland," is home to at least 28 Tibetan children between one and three years old. Most have been there since they were six months old, sent across the Himalayas by their parents to lead what the parents believe would be a better life than in Tibet.

The Chinese army annexed Tibet in 1950. After an uprising by Tibetans in the spring of 1959, the 14th Dalai Lama fled to India with at least 80,000 refugees. Since then thousands have followed him to India. Many who cannot send their children.

'AT LEAST THEY HAVE A FUTURE'

"They miss their parents, their parents miss them, but at least they have a future," said Dampso, one of two "mothers" assigned to the house.

Today more than 100,000 Tibetans live in India, many in Dharamshala and others in camps spread across India. The Indian government provides some financial support to Tibetan schools, which it officially recognizes. Others are funded by donations, the main source of revenue for Tibet's government in exile.

Stretching into the Kangra valley below the Himalayas, 1,000 other young Tibetans live without their parents, sent for traditional Tibetan education no longer possible at home.

As evening falls, children gather in dormitories. On the walls of each are rosters for cleaning, lunch and dinner duty. Some children chatter loudly, while others quietly study beneath flickering lightbulbs and portraits of the Dalai Lama.

Before they sleep, many sing Tibetan folk songs. Morning starts with a five-minute prayer, followed by classes in simple rooms filled with well-worn desks. Students are divided into classes by age and previous education.

All subjects are taught in Tibetan, unlike in Tibet where mathematics and science lessons are usually in Chinese. But Tibetan teachers say the important aspect is not language but the modernization of traditional education -- at least for those who live outside Tibet.

"We are trying to encourage our children to think creatively and democratically. We want them to have opinions and make choices," said Nawang Lhamo Kanang, Education Minister for the Tibetan government in exile.

"The Chinese are trying to gradually extinguish Tibetan culture, especially through education. It's almost impossible for an average Tibetan family to get more than basic education, let alone go to university," Kanang added.

Students say the reasons for their studying in India are simple. "Here I can become a lawyer and help my people," said Tenzin Dolma, 14. "At home there is nothing. No school"

Tibetans also find schools cheaper in India. "Education has simply become too expensive and difficult in Tibet," said Tashi Norbu, director of the Tibetan Reception Center for Refugees.

"It is expensive for the average Tibetan family, especially farmers. High Chinese taxes make it almost impossible, so they send them here and pay what they can," he said. "We get at least 200 or 300 Tibetans a month making the overland trip from Tibet into Nepal and then onto India."

ANCIENT LINKS WITH INDIA

Activists say many Tibetans leave after entering India. Organizers at the center say at least 5 percent of those who arrive in Dharamshala have experienced some form of torture.

The latest group, 26 young men, huddle together on wool blankets in the dank but clean reception center. Although tired, their sprits are high.

"I can't practice my religion in Tibet, everything is too expensive. In India, there is freedom," said Thunsang Gyalpo, as he stopped playing a harmonica. "I've left my family behind but some day I think we'll be able to go back."

The Dalai Lama's government in exile runs a network of 50 schools and camps across India.

"The relationship between Tibetans and Indians is ancient. One thousand years ago Tibetans would make pilgrimages to ... bathe in the holy Indian river Ganges, while Indians would journey to Mount Kailash in Tibet," Norbu said.

"It's not so balanced now for Tibetan culture and India may be the only hope."

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Last updated: 4-Mar-99